C R A F T F O C U S - D A N C E S H A W L S
Use of Dance Shawls
Introducing Crazy Crow's pow wwow dance styles photo & media gallery. Images & video organized by dance style to make it easier for you to find great ideas for your powwow dance clothes.
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Ladies Fancy Shawl Dancing (the newest form of women's dance) is often called Northern Shawl, as it does come form the Northern tribes along the US-Canadian border. This dance style is similar in dancing and the bright colors to the Men's Fancy Dance. The ladies wear their shawls over their shoulders, and dance by jumping and spinning with the music. Though the fancy shawl invloves more motion and agility than other styles of dance, the grace of the woman is always expressed.
As the name of the dance-style would imply, particular emphasis is paid to the shawls, with elaborate designs, appliqué, ribbon work, and painting. Long fringe hangs from the edges of the shawl, and flies round the dancer as she moves to the music.
Women's Traditional is the oldest type of women's dance. It is sometimes referred to as Straight or Buckskin Dancing, and like Men's Traditional there are many tribal variations, including wearing a buckskin, cloth or wool dress.
Regardless of the tribal variations, there are two important items used by Traditional Dancers. One, is the fan. This fan is usually beaded and is raised to the drum, in honor, during the "honor" beats of the songs. The second item, is the shawl. This colorful, fringed shawl is carried over one arm. The fringe of the shawl sways with the movement of the dancer.
Other Uses: Shawls are a very popular give-away item. Also, whenever a woman enters the dance arena without her dance outfit or regalia, she will most likely stop long enough to wrap a shawl around her shoulders.
Making Native American Dance Shawls
Regardless of the type shawl you wish to make, we have tried to assemble all the available online links and resources to help with the task. As additional information is found or created, we will add it in order to keep this reference current (if you haven't noticed, several more links have been added to the Moccasin page since it was created). In addition to the Web resources, we also highlight related products offered by Crazy Crow to make your dance shawl craft project easier and the results more assured.
I must admit that it was much more difficult than I thought it would be to find information regarding making shawls on the web. It almost made me turn in my web connection -and I definitely have less hair (that's happening anyway). If anyone knows of articles ON THE WEB that provide the 'how-to' diagrams online, please forward it to Craft Focus. Besides commercial sources which are listed, the best information I could get was in discussion forums at Powwows.com. This looks like a great place to ask questions and get help from craftworkers from all parts of the country. Try it out!
Craft-Ribbonwork-Part One - Canku Ota
Many shawls are decorated with ribbonwork applique. Part one of this 2-part article will help you use this beautiful means of adornment: What is Ribbonwork, Terms used in Ribbonwork, What kind of ribbons are used today, Making Ribbons using material, What fabric to use and The important aspects of ribbonwork.

Craft-Ribbonwork-Part Two - Canku Ota
In Part Two, the different styles of ribbonwork are discussed, providing examples of how to prepare your ribbons for the technique. Shows some templates you can use.
Features three appliqué ribbonwork techniques: Plains ribbonwork, Osage ribbonwork and Woodlands ribbonwork. The Plains and Osage Style Ribbonwork are mostly the same style only the how the ribbon is put on the material is different.
Reader Contribution
The pictures and descriptions in this section were provided by a reader the day after the Novemeber eNews issue was sent. Quality contributions such as this are very appreciated. Click to enlarge.
(Right) Fancy shawl outfit made by Marie J.Martin (Cherokee) for Shochaytah Martin-Goodeagle.
(Left-Top) Little girl's shawl w/ ribbonwork design. Shawl is gabardine backed w/ light pink cotton (on the inside of shawl, not seen in photo). Design is tafetta ribbonwork (machine stitched, my own pattern). Fringe is satin ribbons around the 3 edges. Ribbons are all sewn on by machine. This shawl is currently on display at Cherokee Heritage Art Show in Tahlequah,OK - show runs thru end of Dec. Shawl made by Marie J.Martin (Cherokee Nation of Oklahoma).
(Left-Bottom) Lady's fancy dance shawl - custom made for Melonie Mathews (Albq.,NM) to match her beaded cape and rest of her outfit. Shawl is white gabardine backed w/ green tissue lame' (on inside of shawl). Front of shawl is all cloth applique (machine sewn). Appliques are done in satin, tissue lame' and metallic gold ric-rac. Half-star design w/ sawtooth (or triangle) design across the bottom edge. Fringe is satin ribbons machine stitched onto the shawl. Made by Marie J.Martin (Cherokee Nation of Oklahoma).
Contemporary Shawl Photo Gallery
These links are high quality closeup photos of some very nice shawls that are decorated with applique ribbonwork.
Woman in ribbonwork outfit carrying ribbon applique ribbon fringed shawl
Ribbonwork on shawl from Ponca City OK
Chainette fringe shawl decorated with applique ribbon panels (1)
Chainette fringe shawl decorated with applique ribbon panel (2)
Gallery of Applique Ribbonwork - Powwows.com
Shawl & Shawl-Related Online Discussion Forums
These links will take you to specific discussion forums on Powwows.com related to shawls and shawl-making. While you're there, join some of these groups yourself and take share in the experience.
What is the right sized shawl?
Shawl Fringe?
Some forum participant contributions:
I like to use shoestring (flat with ridges)fringe on shawls. It flows really nice and is heavy so that it moves on its own. Regular fringe, use a hook and awl, that's how my mom does it. Don't put it too far apart or you get that hobbyist look again. Don't sew it on, that looks fake. Put your time into it. I use the awl and hook with my flat fringe too.
The easiest way that I've found to fringe a shawl is to poke holes aoubt 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch around your hemmed shawl and then using a #6 crochet hook (sometimes it helps to sharpen the end by rubbing it back and forth on concrete a few times), pull 2 pieces of 28" long fringe (cut from the spool), through the hole, even the ends and tie the knot. I like my fringe to be thick and on an average sized shawl I'll use about a spool and a half. The great thing about using a sharp awl to set your holes is that you can really shorten the time it takes to fringe a shawl -- the holes are already in place, you don't have to struggle with a needle or poking the crochet hook through the material.
Since there are many different ways, depending on your preference, I'll share my design.... Once the material is hemmed all around, I take a disappearing ink pen and make dots 3/4" apart all the way around on three sides. Then I take a small knife and make a small slice at each dot. Then using a crochet needle take 27" or 34" strips of ribbon (2 at a time) and feed through the bottom of the hole and pull up through the top and then loop and tie into a knot, while keeping the ribbon even. This allows for a fuller and more beautiful shawl, in a shorter amount of time. I prefer and use 1/16" ribbon on short spools, it is a little more expensive than chainette, but well worth it!
Cloth Dancing: Shawls: What kind of shawl do you like to carry?
Will a ribbon shawl look too fancy for a Southern cloth dress?
How do you fringe a shawl?Many comments about the best needle to use.
Scalloped edges on shawls . .
Fancy Shawl - Tying or sewing ribbons on, instead of chainette fringe
Native American Dance Shawl - Related Products
The following items are used in the above-article, or may provide added reference and helpful information.
Click the product link for product detail, quantity price breaks & a larger image.
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How to Make A Native American Dance Shawl - DVD
Introducing Crazy Crow's powwwow dance styles photo & media gallery. Images & video organized by dance style to make it easier for you to find great ideas for your powwow dance clothes.
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As you travel the Powwow circuit, you will always find
one item above all that is a constant: the Dance Shawl.
This clothing item has long been a symbol of respect
and tradition. This video will take you step-by-step
through the making of the dance shawls. You will also
see exciting design samples and learn special fringe
tying techniques to enhance your shawl. Plus, learn to
make ribbonwork strips, an item that has many
applications outside of the dance shawl. 30 min.
Code: 4085-002-035 Price: 19.95
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Fancy Shawl DVD
Introducing Crazy Crow's powwwow dance styles photo & media gallery. Images & video organized by dance style to make it easier for you to find great ideas for your powwow dance clothes.
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Learn from champion dancers in exciting contests filmed
at Northern powwows. Competition footage in Crow hop
and straight step styles with hundreds of colorful
outfits. Includes a rare interview with one of the
original Fancy Shawl dancers, Grace Her Many Horses.
30 minutes.
Code: 4085-002-042 Price: 19.95
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Whispering Wind Craft Annual #3
Gourd Stitch Beadwork Techniques including expansion,
variations, & designs; Sioux Pipebag Design, A Simple
Sioux Doll, and Hand Tied Ladies Shawls. 48 pages, 68
color & b/w photos & 47 illustrations.
About Whispering Wind Craft Annuals...
An excellent series focusing on American Indian crafts,
first published in Whispering Wind Magazine, and
reproduced here in original form. Each contains
numerous articles by well-known authors, with excellent
photographs, step-by-step instructions on making the
items listed and all are fully illustrated. Soft Cover.
Code: 4105-042-119 Price: 8.00
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Native American Shawl Kit
Women's Native American Dance Shawl Kit
Almost all Native American ladies’ outfits require a dance
shawl. Choose the material color & shawl fringe color from the drop-down
lists provided above. Dance shawl pictured is shown with
felt applique, not included.
American Indian Dance Shawl Kit includes:
- 1-3/4 yds. of gabardine material
- 1 spool of shawl fringe
- “fringing” needle
- illustrated shawl kit instructions
Code: 4838 Price: 44.00
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Chainette Fringe - 14" Length (per yard)
NEW, BETTER QUALITY 14" CHAINETTE FRINGE WITH IMPROVED
COLORS!
We have improved our fringe quality and added and
improved many of the colors available in 14" chainette
fringe. 38 colors available
New Colors: 201 Light Green, 211 Spring Green, 220 Dark Green,
237 Green
Sold by the yard, Chainette Fringe is easily pulled apart
for hand tying, or sewn on the shawl fabric "as-is".
Generally, 2-1/2 to 3 yards is adequate to hand-tie an
average 60” x 60” shawl.
Order Instructions:
- Select the color desired. .
- To order multiple colors, use the "continue shopping" button to return and enter another selection.
- Quantity discount applies PER color ordered.
Code: 3500-014 Price: 8.50
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Chainette Fringe - 18" Length (per yard)
18” Shawl Fringe - We have this hard-to-find size
specially made for us in eight of our most popular colors.
It makes unique & beautiful dance shawls and with the extra
4” of length, it's excellent for double and triple tying!
Code: 3500-018 Price: 9.50
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Shawl Fringe - 1800 Ft Spools
FEATURING OUR VIBRANT, CUSTOM COLORS IN THE VERY
FINEST QUALITY EVER!
We recently added 4 new colors and improved the quality
of both our chainette and spool fringe so it's now
thicker, softer and drapes even better than before. Used
for ladies shawls, aprons, gourd dance sashes & sometimes
even on fan handles.
New Colors: 201 Light Green, 211 Spring Green, 220 Dark Green,
237 Green
Order Instructions:
- Select the color desired. .
- To order multiple colors, use the "continue shopping" button to return and enter another selection.
- You may select assorted colors for the quantity discount.
Code: 3510-100 Price: 17.00
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Flat Shawl Fringe Spools
Available once again in 20 colors! This beautiful fringe
is a favorite of fancy shawl dancers, grass dancers, and
anyone who desires a little variation in a shawl. One
spool is enough to make one standard size (60” x 60” square)
shawl. 1/4" wide. (244 yards per spool)
Code: 3520-200 Price: 19.95
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Shawl Fabric (per yd)
Our shawl kits have been such a tremendous success that
we decided to offer the fabric by the yard. Now you can
purchase as much as you need without having to buy the
whole kit. An excellent material for shawls, as it is a
full 60” wide, woven polyester gabardine that is wrinkle
resistant. Hangs well and appliques nicely!
Code: 3615-002 Price: 8.95
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Satin Ribbon - 3/8"
Select color desired. Used on ribbon shirts, ribbon
work, binding, etc.
Sold by the yard.
Code: 3651-003 Price: 0.45
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Satin Ribbon - 5/8"
Select color desired. Used on ribbon shirts, ribbon
work, binding, etc.
Sold by the yard.
Code: 3651-005 Price: 0.70
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Satin Ribbon - 7/8"
Select color desired. Used on ribbon shirts, ribbon
work, binding, etc.
Sold by the yard.
Code: 3651-007 Price: 0.89
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Taffeta Ribbon in Genuine Rayon - 3" (per yd)
The mill that made our genuine rayon taffeta ribbon is out
of business but we were able to purchase a supply of old
stock in most of the colors we have been out of. The
price is a bit higher as this ribbon has a fancy "picot"
edge, but it is high quality ribbon made in Europe and the
edge can be trimmed off for ribbonwork if need be.
Largely unavailable for many years, we are pleased to be
able to continue to supply fine quality ribbon that folds
well and holds a nice crease. This makes it excellent for
both men's straight dance and women’s ribbonwork. Available
in 16 of the best old-time Osage colors that closely match
our old production samples from 40 years ago.
** As some colors may occasionally be out of stock,
please call for current availability.**
Our taffeta ribbon is now available in 4 colors in
2" width!! Check our 'Related Products' for the link!
Code: 3652-140 Price: 6.50
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Floral Design Wool Shawl - 57" Square
These great old-style shawls are made of 100% wool in
fine quality. They can be used for dance shawls or a
simple wrap, and are very popular among Southern Plains
women for use as an "apron" that is wrapped around
buckskin or cloth dresses.
We are pleased to be able to offer these hard-to-find
shawls with their traditional designs in beautiful
multiple colors.
Approximately 57" square. Availability and color shades
may vary, so please give 2nd or 3rd choices as quantities
are sometimes limited.
NOTE: Indicate alternative choices in the space
indicated.
Seasonal item - quantities are sometimes limited.
Code: 4617-015 Price: 89.00
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Shawl Fringing Needles
Our special, nickel-plated steel needle is 2-3/4” long,
with a large eye that is perfect to accommodate 2 strings
of fringe or yarn, making it easy to attach without
snagging or tearing your shawl fabric. This is the best
fringing needle we have found yet! Get some extras so
you can do several shawls at once!
Code: 5013-013-000 Price: 1.25
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Taffeta Ribbon in Genuine Rayon - 2" (per yd)
The mill that made our genuine rayon taffeta ribbon is out
of business but we were able to purchase a supply of old
stock in most of the colors we have been out of. The
price is a bit higher as this ribbon has a fancy "picot"
edge, but it is high quality ribbon made in Europe and the
edge can be trimmed off for ribbonwork if need be.
Largely unavailable for many years, we are pleased to be
able to continue to supply fine quality ribbon that folds
well and holds a nice crease. This makes it excellent for
both men's straight dance and women’s ribbonwork. Available
in 16 of the best old-time Osage colors that closely match
our old production samples from 40 years ago.
** As some colors may occasionally be out of stock,
please call for current availability.**
Our taffeta ribbon is also available in 3"!! Check our 'Related
Products' for the link!
Code: 3652-130 Price: 4.50
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