Origins of the Tricorn style Hat

The tricorne appeared as a result of the evolution of the broad-brim round hat used by Spanish soldiers in Flanders during the 17th century. By pledging (binding) the brims, a triangular shape was obtained. This shape was favored by Spanish soldiers, as when standing at arms their muskets could be held at their shoulders right or left without hitting the hat brim. War broke out between France and Spain in 1667 over the Spanish Netherlands, and during the subsequent struggle its use spread to the French armies. The style was brought back to France, where its usage spread to the French population and the royal court of King Louis XIV, who made it fashionable throughout Europe, both as a civilian and military wear. By the end of the 17th century, the tricorne was popular in both civilian fashion and in military uniforms. They remained one of the predominant European styles of hat throughout the 18th century.[3]

17th Century Introduction of the Tricorn Hat

In 17th-century America, hats with tall crowns and wide brims, like the steeple hats worn by the Puritans, started to go out of style. They were thought to spoil the appearance of and look precarious atop a wig, which was the newest fashion trend for men at the time.

Adjustments for Military “Practicality”

At the height of its popularity, the tricorn was worn by the aristocracy, common civilians and members of the military as well. For the military, officers and others who did not carry a musket would have worn their hat center point forward like a civilian, however, those soldiers carrying muskets wore the hat differently. For soldiers who often rested a musket or rifle on their left shoulder or even if not on the shoulder but on the ground but with a bayonet attached, however, their tricorn was usually worn with the front corner directly above their left eyebrow.

This basically placed the left side of the hat facing forward, creating clearance on that side of the head where the rifle on the shoulder would otherwise prevent the soldier from moving his head without the hat striking the musket. Refer to the video below for a display of the significance of wearing the hat pointing to the right.

The most common military version of the tricorn was normally higher in back than in front, being approximately 5″ tall (back) and 4″ tall (front). Another advantage of tricornes with laced sides was that the laces could be loosened and one or more sides dropped down to provide better protection from the weather, sun, and rain.[5]

Cockades & Other Decoration

The English dictionary defines cockade as a rosette, feather, or knot of ribbon usually worn on the hat as part of a uniform, as a badge of office, or the like. The word’s origin is dated around 1709 and is derived from the French word ‘cocarde’ which is feminine of cocard meaning foolishly proud or cocky. However, in 18th century military society, hats were deemed of vast importance in a soldiers’ dress and the cockade was an extension of that. As the war progressed and the Continental Army took on a more professional look, at least with officers’ dress, Washington demanded that officers attend to their uniform in meticulous detail. He particularly emphasized this standard whenever a commander was in the presence of his men. He believed that, if an officer were to garnish respect and devotion from his men, then he must present himself as one worthy of receiving such approbation. [7]

General Washington Orders Cockades Be Worn

Prior to the Battle of Long Island, the general orders issued by supreme commander General George Washington on August 20th, 1776 included instructions detailing the use of cockades. This was early in the war when the rebellious colonists’ main army was basically made up of militias, still in civilian attire. The section read: ‘As the Continental Army has unfortunately no uniforms,

and consequently many inconveniences must arise from not being able to distinguish the commissioned officers from the privates, it is desired that some badge of distinction be immediately provided.’ Field officers were to wear a pink cockade. Captains were to don white or buff, while subalterns attached green cockades to headgear.

On July 19th, 1780, adjuncts were issued orders for officers recommending that they acquire white and black cockades; a black back ground with white relief, emblematic of the expected union of the French and American army. Not until 1783 was it called a “Union Cockade” and was to be worn on the left breast.[8]

Washington’s issuance of colored cockades to distinguish rank was unusual. Historically, cockades served as a symbol of unity, or proclaiming alliance to a faction or cause. The colors of the cockade were the colors of the house, dynasty, or national flag under which the soldier served. At times military buttons, ribbon braids, or national symbols were added to the rosette. England and the Hanovarian dynasty (King George III) favored black cockades, while those congruent with the Jacobites (Stuart dynasty), used white cockades. France had white cockades, Spain red, and Germany used an assortment of colors; black, red, white, or gold depending on the era. Throughout the American Revolutionary War, the rebel colonists tended to use black cockades that they inherited from the English.[9]